Barcelona: Primer and Guide
As a travel professional with a special interest in Spain, the single most common question I get is, “What should I do in Barcelona?”. It’s not at all surprising considering that Barcelona gets far more American visitors than any other city in Spain. This is mainly due to Barcelona’s role as a European hub for the cruise industry. In 2019, the last year in which we can measure a normal pace of travel, 3.2 million cruise passengers experienced the city. Many of these visitors are in Barcelona for a day, or even less, so a lot of the questions that come my way have to do with how to prioritize limited amounts of time. Fair enough.
The Primer
This is where I provide some context for your visit. If you are just looking for ideas about what to do, you can skip to the “Guide” section below. 🤓
I never really know what to say about Barcelona. In some ways it is the most un-Spanish of cities. Most visitors are aware that there is no love lost between Catalonia (the autonomous political region in which Barcelona is the largest city) and the rest of Spain. The proximate cause of the modern Catalan indepenence movement that intermittently rents the social fabric can be traced back to a relatively recent and very trying period during which Catalonia was repressed by an authoritarian central government that believed that any non-Castilian nationalist tendencies had to be crushed. The policy of intolerance towards the Catalan language, culture, and political agency ended abruptly in the 1970s with the miraculously rapid transition from Franco’s Falangist regime to a republican democracy. Nevertheless, a generation of Catalan leaders grew up under the thumb of dictatorship, and the memory of its repression still clouds all rational efforts to reconcile Catalonia’s place as a valuable and integral part of the Spanish nation.
Despite some potentially fictional properties inherent to the modern independence movement, Catalonia really is distinctive in its character. And this distinctiveness is empirical. For those that may have experienced other Spanish cities (Madrid, Seville, Zaragoza, etc.), there is something oddly un-Spanish about Barcelona. The bones of a Spanish metropolis may be present, but the skin reflects the influences of a port city facing the opportunities and ideas of other places. There is a façade of affluence not present in the rest of Spain, and the raw, grey power of Castile is not present here. Something happened in Barcelona that didn’t happen to the rest of Spain. What is it?
My favorite answer is that Catalonia was able to break free (even if just for a few centuries) from the ugly trap of feudalism so expertly managed by the church and landed interests. The Iberian Peninsula was stuck in this trap for centuries, and it could be argued that they did not break free until the 1970’s. Catalonia, as part of Spain, suffered as well but there were differences. Catalonia, unlike the rest of the Spain, boasted a vibrant merchant class, and its commercial optimism resulted in the development of a true Mediterranean empire. I say Catalonia. Historians would say Aragon, since Barcelona hosted the throne of Aragon during their period of ascendance (12th-14th Centuries). And the truth is that most of the change that contributed to what we now refer to as “Catalan character” was focused on the capitol city (then county) of Barcelona. Barcelona itself (as a port city) and its merchant class can be compared in some ways to the great Italian city-states, acquiring wealth, projecting influence outside its borders, and establishing some degree of power vis-à-vis the traditional medieval estates.
But why Barcelona? Why not Seville or Madrid during this late medieval timeframe? To some extent the city’s success can be attributed to geographical fate, with its privileged location vis-à-vis the major Mediterranean trading routes of the time. But I would argue that the fuel which allowed the Catalans to capitalize on their geography was their unique approach to justice. The Middle Ages and its predominantly feudal power-bases produced a law based on personage rather than territory, related mainly to the responsibilities of tenant to patron. More territorial Roman legal principles had been briefly resurrected by the Visigoths. (I wrote about that here.) But until the County of Barcelona codified the Usages (the laws that would form the legal components of the Catalan constitutions) beginning in the 12th Century, no part of the Christian Peninsula had experienced a legal code clearly based on territory, rather than personal power. Here was a legal code that both ruler and ruled could claim as their own, mitigating the subjectivities of the feudal order. With these primitive protections for the rights of the individual, a middle class (merchant class) found fertile soil, accumulated wealth, and contributed to a stable and optimistic social order capable of influencing commerce and culture throughout the Mediterranean. In this order, individuals gained a primitive sense of agency, and some confidence that they could survive the vicissitudes of the medieval experience.
This sense of agency, of individual worth, remained an important part of the Catalan culture. When people ask me about the Spanish Civil War, I always tell them that there were three sides: The Nationalists (Franco’s Falangist movement), the Communists (composed of former Republicans but backed by the Russians) and the Anarchists (Catalan Syndicalists). The Catalans could not abide the Fascists or the Communists because both ideologies carried an organized and hierarchical approach to governing that threatened their libertarian ethos. While the Catalans fought alongside the Communist-backed Republicans, I have no doubt that they would not have abided a Communist regime in Madrid any more so than they subsequently tolerated the fascist Franco regime. Want an inside look at this topic? Read Homage to Catalonia by George Orwell.
Why am I torturing you with all this history? It’s simply this: The most important thing about Barcelona is that it is distinct in an Iberian context. And if you haven’t had the chance to visit the rest of Spain (or even if you have), you might miss this profound and beautiful truth about the place and its people. The true roots of any destination are often invisible, and describing a place as “different” is meaningless unless you understand “what it is different from”.
If there is one book I would recommend to you prior to your visit, it’s Cathedral of the Sea by Catalan author Ildefonso Falcones. 📚 As historical fiction, it takes much inspiration from Ken Follet’s remarkable novel, The Pillars of the Earth. Falcones presents the story of the construction of the Basilica of Santa Maria del Mar in what is now Barcelona’s Gothic Quarter. While most of the characters are fictional, the historical backdrop is well researched and provides the reader with an insightful interpretation of Catalan life during the 14th Century, with much discussion regarding the development of individual agency and the evolving Catalan social structure. And of course, your visit to the beautiful Basilica will be even more meaningful having read the book. (There is also a TV series based on the book. Not recommended.)
The Guide
Places
So, you have a day (or maybe two) to enjoy the city! The good news is that you can see a lot in a day. I’m simply going to run down some of the attractions that I find most meaningful.
Barcelona is a city known for its architecture, and the great master that shaped the modern city more than any other is Antonio Gaudi. His work has become synonymous with the city and its unique (and perhaps quirky) style. If you are like me, and not an architecture expert, you may want to check out this refresher regarding why Gaudi is/was so important in his field. You could easily spend two days visiting Gaudi’s spaces in the city. I will highlight three of them:
·Park Guell: Originally intended as a private garden, Gaudi was given free rein to create a magical landscape of colors and curves. This is NOT an amusement park. 😉 In fact it’s not really a park at all. It’s more of a public garden where you can stroll, enjoy a quiet urban vibe, and take in some great views of the city as it sprawls to the sea. There is a maximum limit to the number of guests allowed in the park at any given time, so I would advise you to purchase your ticket ahead of time. You can do so here. Otherwise, tickets are available for sale at the gate.
The Sagrada Familia: This is one of Gaudi’s core legacy statements. There is nothing in the world that approximates this powerfully unconventional basilica. Visiting Barcelona and not visiting the Sagrada Familia would be akin to visiting Cairo and not visiting the pyramids. (Clear enough?) Work began on the structure in 1882 and will not be complete for at least another decade. So keep in mind that you will be visiting an active construction site. Unlike Park Guell, you must purchase your ticket ahead of time. You may do so here. I highly recommend that you include the towers in your purchase. (That being said, the towers have been closed from time to time recently due to construction.)
If you are interested in visiting one of the more “functional” spaces that Gaudi created, then I would suggest Casa Battlo. Gaudi did not actually construct the bones of this one-time private residence. Rather he remodeled an old structure. The experience is very different from Park Guell or the Sagrada Familia, offering the opportunity to experience the architect’s vision in a more intimate setting. (Also a dry setting, in the event that you are in Barcelona on a rainy day.) As with the attractions listed above, you are advised to purchase your tickets ahead of time.
OK, let’s break free from Gaudi and talk about the rest of the city! The two most iconic streets are Las Ramblas, and the Paseo de Gracia (where Battlo happens to be located).
Las Ramblas is well known to most cruise passengers, because it begins at the port. Outdoor cafes, and a carnival-like atmosphere may remind visitors of a New Orleans Street during Marid Gras. Spanish Poet Garcia Llorca referred to Las Ramblas as “the one street in the world I didn’t want to end”. This is one of those places that you will end up visiting even if you don’t mean to. It’s in the middle of everything. There are a couple of things you need to know. First, towards evening, parts of the street can get seedy. So just be aware. Secondly, Las Ramblas is “pick-pocket central” in Barcelona. Think you’re too smart to get pick-pocketed? 😆 Bottom line is that it’s a fun stroll, but you’ll want to keep an eye out. (Yes, it is also referred to as “La Rambla”.)
NOTE: Due to the volume of tourists in Barcelona, non-violent street scams are ubiquitous. This is a pretty good video describing how to avoid the most common of them.
Paseo de Gracia is another wonderful street to stroll, and with a very different vibe. Here you will find the city’s exclusive hotels, boutique shops, and restaurants. Beautiful 19th Century architecture lines a luxurious urban canyon competing quite competently with anything to be found in other European metropolises.
Now on to my favorite part of Barcelona: The Gothic Quarter (Barri Gotic). This is the old city with its narrow pedestrian streets, ancient churches, and cobblestone streets. It’s also home to the Basilica of Santa Maria del Mar that I mentioned earlier in this post. You could easily spend a day here. I like this short article highlighting the top-10 things to do in this historical neighborhood.
The places/attractions I’ve mentioned above are the tip of the iceberg. From the city’s beaches to cable car rides to the top of Montjuic Mountain, you won’t run out of things to do. And if by chance you did run out of options in the city, you have dozens of amazing day trips to choose from. My personal favorite daytrip is Montserrat.
Food and Lodging
Catalonia, and Barcelona in particular, is a globally recognized culinary center. Oddly enough though, with millions of tourists filtering through every year, it’s the only place in Spain where bad restaurants can survive (and even thrive). To the best of your ability, it’s important to plan your meals ahead of time, rather than simply walking into a café with a nice photo of a paella on the door. It’s not the purpose of this post to lay out dozens of restaurant options, but I will pass along a couple of suggestions. Unless you are a true foodie, you might need a primer on what counts as Catalan. Here’s a great article that highlights some iconic plates, some of which you will surely recognize.
The top food-related venue I can recommend is the Boqueria Market. This old-style European food market has been operating since the 13th Century. While you can still buy all the raw ingredients you want there, a great reason to visit the Boqueria is to eat prepared food. Hundreds of kiosks specialize in their versions of Catalan dishes. This article has some great recommendations on where to get the best of everything when you visit. And even if you are not there to eat, the Boqueria is a must-visit attraction. It’s a tour de force of local produce and culinary culture.
A couple of restaurants that I personally like are:
7 Doors. You will see tourists here, but the food is generally very well done, with good service and reasonable prices.
Want to go completely off the beaten path? Try Bar Gines for shellfish. Don’t expect anyone to speak English, but you can point to what you want. You’ll thank me.
I have more ideas, but I’m always nervous about listing everything here because on a day-to-day basis it’s hard to know what’s open, what’s closed, what’s changed hands, etc. If you want specific up-to-date advice, shoot me a note.
What about lodging? If you are looking for something upscale, I can get you more than you would be able to get by booking directly. Check in with me regarding any of the Virtuoso properties that I represent in Barcelona. Not into high-end? No problem. Give me a call. I’ve got you covered.
Conclusion
We started this post by asking what you should do if you only had a day in Barcelona. Well, if you are determined to go-it on your own, then I would say visit the Sagrada Familia in the morning. Come back to the Boqueria Market for lunch, and then spend some time wandering through the Gothic Quarter.
However, you don’t have to do it on your own. To make the most of your day, consider getting a guide. I can connect you with some of the best guides in the city, and they will ensure that you maximize the time you have there. Not just from a time management perspective, but also in the context of enrichment, as they focus on the things that matter most to you. Beyond this, the human connection you form with your guide, a connection with a native, may be the thing that you carry with you long after you forget the name of a street or a monument. Let me know how I can help.
I hope this post (while a bit longer than usual) has inspired you to learn more about Barcelona and to make the most of your visit, regardless of the circumstances. Travel smart! Get engaged! Enjoy!
